When to Go to Siena
The whole province plays host to markets, local festivals themed on local products such as the olive harvest, the production of wine and different feativals such as carnival and Easter. The City Administration Centre provides information and makes reservation for the disabled. Call: 0577 29215.
City market (Wednesday mornings, venue: la Lizza around the Fortezza, from 8.30am-1.30pm) Large lively market of stalls exploding into colours and sated with affordable items such as footwear, leather goods, homewares, flowers and fresh fruit and vegetables. Great to browse or get a good supply of any of its products.
Antique manquet (Third Sunday monthly; venue: Piazza del Mercato).
Fiesta of S.Giuseppe (19th March; venue: Via Duprè, Contrada dell'Onda).
Concerts and opera (Throughout the year, until the week of Sienese music held in July and August; sponsor: Accademia Musicale Chigiana (headquarters: Via di Cittá 89; tel. 0577 22091 / Fax: 0577 288 124; www.chigiana.it/index_ing.htm)).
Open air cinema and theatre performances, Cinema in Fortezza ( June and July; venue: Fortezza Medici) Movies are diffent every evening.
Open air concerts (July/August; sponsor: the Siena Jazz Association (Headquarters: Fortezza Medicea, 10; tel.0577 271 401 / Fax: 0577 271 404; www.sienajazz.it/home_eng.html)) In winter the Siena Jazz Association devotes to events and courses.
Open air cinema (August; venue: parks in Siena) Films are different each evening.
Open air performances (August; put on by small local drama groups) Advertised here and there in Siena. Affordable performances.
Sagra del Buongustaio (end of August and beginning of September; venue: San Gimignano) Tasting of typical dishes.
Sagra della Bruschetta (mid-September; venue; Gaiole in Chianti).
Festa dell'Uva (September, venue: Chiusi) Tasting, music and theatre performances.
Treno Natura (Sundays from spring to autumn) Journey: from Siena, around the countryside stretching south of Siena, across the Val d'Arbia, Val d'Orcia and the scenic La Crete, calling at Asciano and Monte Antico. A journey on an old fashioned steam-powered train running along twisting rails. (tel. 0577 207413; www.ferrovieturistiche.it/p.asp?p=etrenonatura.asp).
Settimana Musicale Senese (November; venue: frequently San Galgano Abbey; sponsor: Accademia Musicale Chigiana (headquarters: Via di Cittá 89; tel. 0577 0577 22091 / Fax: 0577 288 124; www.chigiana.it/index_ing.htm)).
Fiesta of Santa Lucia (13th December; venue: streets of Siena, along Piano dei Mantellini).
Il PALIO
aka the Palio di Siena (2nd July and 16th August; venue: Piazza del Campo; www.ilpaliodisiena.com). This colourful fierce horse race takes place twice a year. Out of the seventeen contrade (districts) only ten send a rider, horses with their colours and flags to bring them the prize.
One of the races is celebrated to honour the Madonna di Provenzano, therefore its name, and the one taking place in August celebrates the Assumption of Mary, in whose name it originates: Palio dell’Assunta.
The Corteo Storico, an eye catching pageant, goes before the competition and is an unavoidable gathering if visitors organize or chance to be in Siena in that time.
The three circles of dirt the bareback riders do around the Piazza del Campo take in fact about 90 seconds. The race is a high risk competition for the riders falling off the horses but it is so captivating that its celebration has remained for centuries. The horse representing the contrade that ends up first is the only winner, no matter whether it is ridden by a jockey or not.
History records find that the antecedents of the palio in the public games celebrated in the main square of Siena in the Middle Ages. At first the population gathered to watch the palii alla lunga (races which involved all the city area, in which the contrade competed from the 14th cnetury on), pugna, (similar to boxing or brawl), jousts and bullfights whose shows began in the 1500s.
Bullfighting was forbidden in 1590 by the Grand Duchy and from then on the contrade set up other public games or competitions in the Piazza del Campo. At first riders on buffalo competed for the prize. But then horses were the means to compete for the so desired award. The palio alla tonda, the modern version of horse race held only in the Piazza del Campo, was held for the first time in 1656 and for some time only on the 2nd of July. The Palio dell’Assunta was incorporated some years later.
The Palio di Siena implies more than horse-riding. In the previous days unofficial encounters planned in secret, in which the heads of contrade and riders meet, are held. The competition involves passionate side-taking, an honour for the contrade winning the so much desired prize and even fanatism. The final result is a combination of riders’ abilities, good horses and allies’ agreements. Whatever seems to overshadow it, passion is in the heart of each participant in these Sienese celebrations.
